OCT 16
Saturday we headed north back into Chianti country with Rich and Vicki2. We hit three home runs in tourism.

FIRST HOME RUN

We stopped in the hill town of Civitella where we had eaten lunch a few days ago. It is small and no one was there just like last time. We started to look at the interesting art around the square and were reading the signs. We were stunned to find out that 177 men, women and children were executed by shots to the back of their heads, 5 people at a time, right in the square by the Nazis. It was retaliation for the shooting of 2 German soldiers a few weeks before. The Nazis went to two small communities near by and killed all the people in them, 10 in one and 25 in the other. A least one German soldier was shot for failing to carry out the order.Two weeks later, the British marched in to town.

The statues were made by people that have visited this town and were so moved by the incident they created art in memory of the event.

We met a couple from Long Island NY, that has leased a house right on the small square for over 20 years. They told us a coffee shop had just opened and that they fly their pastries in from Perugia. This seemed to be quite impossible, but it was coffee time and so we stopped in. The pastries looked excellent, but how do you justify flying them in by helicopter and charging only 1 euro? Leaving town we did indeed see the helicopter parked just outside of town. Speculation is that someone of wealth lives there, maybe the Long Island couple, and the pastries just hitch a ride from Perugia.

In town was a small traveling art exhibit and there was some great art. I really, really liked the painting of the Vespa and was ready to fork over the money, with the encouragement of Rich and Vicki2 when Vicki gave me “the look”. No pleading or justification could change the "look". Where else could I get a painting of a Vespa, painted in Italy, by an Italian? It was destiny. She said "take a picture and go to Ecuador and have Moya help you paint it yourself".

I like that idea, but I really, really liked that painting.

http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civitella_in_Val_di_Chiana

rich makes a friend

to much caffine??

vicki2 buys a helicopter pastry

why is this man smiling so much? because there are no shopping shops open in this town

don't you think I should own this?

that is not the look I got when I wanted to buy the painting

helicopter bottom right. scaffolding on hill is around old tower

SECOND HOME RUN

When we got deep into Chianti country we were going to stop at the first open vineyard we came to. We missed a few but passed one that had a tent set up, about a dozen cars and a helicopter. We passed by slowly trying to decide if it truly was open as the sign said or whether there was something special going on. We drove to the round-about and stopped to contemplate..the vote from Rich, the chauffeur and Vicki in the front seat was we should go. So, around the circle we went and back to the vineyard. We pulled in to Tenuta San Jacopo vineyard and most of the people were around the helicopter parked next to the dirt drive. A gentleman came over and met me as I got out of the car to inquire and said “you want to taste the wine?” “Yes” I replied and he had someone lead us down to the buildings. A very handsome Italian came up and said “wait here” and went off. He came back with a very lovely lady named Monica, who we found out later is his wife. He is the manger of the vineyard but she works for a New Yorker who owns a vineyard over the hill and she speaks perfect English, so he had recruited her to give us the tour. Though I felt that we might be imposing, as we learned they had just harvested the last grapes and this was the end of harvest celebration, she made us feel as if nothing else was more important than telling us about the wines. The party was ending and everyone was leaving anyway she said.

Besides Monica’s wonderful demeanor and total patience with us, the wine was wonderful. She told us that this vineyard really did not start producing quality wine until 2004 when two brothers from Milan bought it. They use the same winemaker that her NY boys use and in the short 6 years he has won several awards for wine from this vineyard. The NY boy's wines, $35; the new boys from Milan, stirred by the same wine mixer, $10. Even I could figure out this deal.

Their wine was great, but their Grappa and olive oil were what I found to be the biggest surprise. They were excellent. We sampled and she explained what made them so good and how they are made. Since grappa is 42% alcohol, it has to be distilled in another location licensed to produce such products. Grappa is made from the leftovers after the wine process, but mainly the skins of the grape. She says when you take the skins in, the distiller will rub the skins in his hand, sniff them, and tell you what the quality of the grappa will be.

I think we bought one of everything. As Rich and Vicki2 were discussing how they were going to get this in the suitcase and packing, Monica said she could put them in traveling boxes for them. Theny she asked us if we wanted the same. Vicki said “no way, ours will be drunk long before we get to the airplane”.

Monica, with the occasional visit from her husband who was busy doing formal work stuff, must have spent and hour and half with us. She was lovely and the product was superior. It was a home run for us that she just happened to be there today.

http://www.tenutasanjacopo.it/webapp/

Monica on the right and her husband on the left

the products

tasting what was just harvested

pay close attention Rich

HOME RUN THREE

After running around we decided to go out to dinner with Sandy and John, the residents of the other apartment. Off we go to a restaurant in the dark in heavy rain to the small town of Mariano. Other than being recommend by Daniel in the apartment instructions, we knew nothing really about the place. It was located in the small square of this town and you had to duck to get in the door. We were met by the owner. He was about 5’8’, heavy set, longish black hair, heavy black shaved facial hair, dressed in black, and probably mid-40’s. The room was small with about four tables. He asked if we had reservations and we said we did not but Daniel and Manula had sent us. Ok, he says and leads us upstairs to a table for six reserved for the Belina’s, seats us, hands us menus in English a leaves, wadding up the Belina’s reservation. He returns and in broken English asked if we have questions. Rich asks about ravioli with “grass”. Grass is spinach, but he says” we’a don’t’a have’a that’a, grass time’a is’a finished". Vicki asked about another pasta dish and he says” we’a don’t’a have’a that we have’a….” and goes on to tell us about the dish he is substituting from his grandma and it sounds wonderful. Vicki2 asks about Veal fillet. He says “no veal” and goes on to say sometimes things don’t translate right into English. “No veal like’a American….you mean’a baby cow…no baby cow…old cow.” And so it went, with him pretty much telling us what we should have, the whole time with a smile on his face and the gesturing hands. We placed our order and a couple of us tried to ask about wine. “No wine now, first food”. When the ordering was done, he says “wine, russo or blanco?” “Russo” we say. “OK’a” and off he goes and a bottle of house wine returns.

We ordered a few pastas and a few main dishes and when they came, we served them family style, with everyone trying each course. I can say there was not a thing that any one of us did not like. This whole process started again over dessert, “we have’a big’a dessert” he says and forms his arms in a big circle. “cream’a pie, cake…” but our conversation got him back to the big cream pie. “What is it?” we ask. “A big’a pie” he says with his arms forming the circle smiling from ear to ear, “with’a cream.” In the end we just wound up with a slice of cake with a candle for Vicki2’s birthday.

We had sat down at about 8 pm and we were all stunned that we got up at 11 pm. For us old people that is late. It was such a great experience we thought we had only been there a short period of time. Another home run that we just chose the right restuarant with the right owner.

http://www.osterialavecchiarota.it/